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PASTA GO The sauce is cooked and covers the pasta when spread out in the same pot.

Photo:

CHELSEA CRAIG FOR WALL STREET MAGAZINE, FOOD STYLING PEARL JONES, PROPS STYLING BETTE PAKRADUNI

Kitty Greenwald

15. December 2020. 12:05 p.m. Eastern time

Chef: Rebecca Wilcomb

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Illustration:

Michael Hooverler.

Your restaurant: Gianna’s in New Orleans.

What she’s known for: She cooks in honour of her Italian grandmothers, including her own, after whom the restaurant is named. Pure ingredients, the best local products and seafood from the Gulf.

When tomatoes and pork fat are combined in a special way, it is magical. It’s called all’Amatriciana, the classic Roman pasta sauce. Chef

Rebecca Wilcomb.

From

Gianna

in New Orleans, a lifetime of learning to appreciate the subtleties of this simple dish. There must be a balance between fat and acid, she said. Fat should dominate the feeling in the mouth and the smoky taste should remain in the background.

Mrs Wilcombe’s second Slow Food Fast recipe has its roots in the version she ate as a child with her Italian mother, but also in the version she later found on a trip to Italy. My mother used guanciale, pancetta or bacon, she says. I like all three of them. Whatever you use it for, it must be very well marbled.

Good canned tomatoes are also important, Wilcombe said, because they do not add flavour to the can. The long, hollow bucatini noodles go well with the rustic sauce and make a good bite. But if you have spaghetti, that’s fine, too.

SHARE YOUR IDEAS

Share your experience with this recipe – have you made any adjustments yet? How did you serve him? Take part in the discussion below.

The list of ingredients lacks something every Italian nunna would have stored in her pantry. He gathers quickly by the stove. What you want is a daring end result that is also inconspicuous, Ms. Wilcombe. It’s a modest dish that celebrates ingenuity.

To discover and find all our recipes, visit our new WSJ recipes page.

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CHELSEA CRAIG FOR WALL STREET MAGAZINE, FOOD STYLING PEARL JONES, PROPS STYLING BETTE PAKRADUNI

Ingredients

  • Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • 1 pound bucatini or spaghetti
  • 1 tablespoon olive oil
  • 1 cup ¼-inch guanciale cube, pancetta, or bacon fat
  • 1 cup finely chopped yellow onion
  • 2 tablespoons chopped garlic
  • ¼ teaspoon chili flakes, and more to taste.
  • 2 tablespoons tomato puree
  • 1 can of whole tomatoes
  • ¼ teaspoon dried oregano
  • Freshly grated pecorino

Directions

  1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil on high heat. Add the pasta and cook al dente for 10 to 12 minutes.
  2. Meanwhile, put a large pan on medium heat and stir in the olive oil and guanciale. Boil regularly, stirring, until the fat has broken down and the pieces start to become crispy, 3 to 4 minutes. Stir the onions and fry them in 2 to 3 minutes until they are translucent. Add garlic and chili flakes and fry until lightly browned, 1 to 2 minutes. Stir in the tomato puree and sauté until the fat begins to brown, about 1 minute longer.
  3. Add the canned tomatoes and oregano. Use a spoon to break the tomatoes into coarse, irregular pieces. Let the sauce simmer for 8 to 10 minutes, until the flavours are soft but still clear. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
  4. Bring the cooked pasta from the pan to the saucepan and keep the pasta water in the pan. Add the noodles and the sauce. If necessary, add some of the water reserved for the pasta to stretch the sauce and cover the pasta.
  5. Sprinkle the pasta with grated pecorino.

-Customized by Rebecca Wilcomb. -Customized by Rebecca Wilcomb.

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easy pasta dishes,healthy pasta,creamy pasta recipes,summer pasta recipes

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